Beside the information already posted, here are three Pro Tips to make your long-range precision session a success:
1. Have your rifle zeroed at 100 yards - this offers a baseline for the mentors to work from.
2. Have good precision (not hunting) ammo (Federal, Hornady, Berger, etc.,) and of the same type. A mismatch of ammo of differing grain weight makes it harder at long range.
3. Get a ballistic app for your phone and have your rifle and bullet data in the calculator. This will build a range chart offering scope settings based off distance (for example, 6.9mils at 1,000yds) that makes it easier to get you on target while saving you time and money over a hunt and peck method.
Feel free to ask a question and I'll do my best to answer.
What would be advisable for targets >300 yards. I've considered getting large spatter targets or just putting clays in the berm. Is there a better option to help in learning to adjust my aim at the longer ranges?
I would suggest getting a steel "gong" target made from AR500 steel . They ring when they are hit and they are nearly indestructible. If you spray paint the face, you can see the hit too. I bought mine from Arntzen Targets, which is now Made Targets (https://madetargets.com/). Buy or design a stand that is stable. The AR500 steel targets are heavy @ 19lbs. for a 16" circle.
Clay targets on the backstop berm work well if you cannot see your hits on paper. "Splatter-type" targets work well out to the 600 yard firing line. My fail-safe is clay targets and there are plenty of free bio-degradable targets laying on the ground at the skeet range.
On Range 4 you have the option of posting paper targets on your stand, on a KD target board (club provides KD board,you provide targets and how to stick them on board), or using steel targets or shooting clay birds on the back berm.
All of that works based on what objective you have. Just know at 300 yds and beyond unless you have a range camera set up, the bullet holes on paper targets can't be seen, especially if you use See N Shoot targets and your rounds land off that target, you don't know from 300 yds if your shots are high, low, left or right. Thus if you want immediate feedback, the Klang of steel targets tells you of hits but tells you nothing of where your missed shot went unless you use a fellow shooter for a spotter. Now if you shoot at skeet birds, no cost and easy to put up on berm, you see your hits and hopefully see impact of shots on berm when & where you "miss" (thats called a Near Hit on Range 1....LOL). I have told the truth here on seeing hits and seeing impacts on berm but on 12 Feb, that truth has changed 100 Percent. The New Truth is the berm on Range 4 is covered in a matting & netting surface covering to hold erosion down and facilitate grass growth. My shooting of birds on 12 Feb saw hits on or near birds cause all birds to bounce down the berm , rolling off . One bird of mine went from lane 4 and rolled to lane 7 and then out of sight. Furthermore as sun arose and mirage began, it became impossible to see strike of bullet on the berm because the matting moving by bullet impact was impossible to see and I had my rifle scope up to 25x and could not see matting move by bullet impacting on / thru it. Thus birds are now a problematic target to shoot at and furthermore, strikes of bullets can only be seen during the short period before mirage begins to occur on the range. What is the answer...have a spotter and shoot as a team with another club member shooter. The spotter has a chance to see impact of your shots, you won't catch it in your scope as the rifle recoils ..the big dirt splash isn't happening so you can't see bullet impact anymore on the berm. Spotter Shooter technique is best solution, does not diminish your shooting time but it will get you visibility and feedback on where shots land so you can make wind and mirage corrections and get shots onto the birds on bank. Here is a bottom line, that matting isn't biodegradable and going away, its pretty substantial so how to shoot birds on it will take greater effort on Range 4.
Hello newcomer here,
I'm considering becoming proficient on the 1000 yd range and have a few questions before I dive in. IS it practical to shoot .243 on range 4 and to use 70gr. bullets? My Tikka is consistently shooting 1 hole 5 shot groups at 100 yds using 70 Sierra Blitz Kings and I hate to change ammo with those results. Of course I'll be practicing on the 300m range before trying my hand at the longer distances. Is it possible to come to range 4 as an observer to see how the operation works? I'm thinking that my future association with the longer ranges will result in me beginning a reloading operation and as that progresses heavier bullets will eventually become part of my arsenal. What's the go to round at the range 4 BTW? Thanks in advance.